Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Travel Writing: Seashore Serenity

Imagine yourself walking along the seashore, the water gently lapping at your toes and receding. See the setting sun in the west, the sky changing colors with time, first yellow, then orange and pink, and finally shades of purple. You take a sip of the hot chocolate in your hands and feel it warm your body as you swallow. The wind blows softly, just enough to make you hug your cashmere sweater closer to your shoulders but not enough to make you shiver. The sweet smell of salt water and sand fills your senses and the distant shouts of a man and his dog echo in your ears. Sandy beaches are one of the most relaxing places to visit while abroad, providing a calming atmosphere, gorgeous scenery, and a spot of time to remember long after you’ve left.

The historic Lindisfarne, or “Holy Island” as is the common name, is one of the most beautiful seashores in Europe and is located east of England next to the North Sea. The island is a causeway surrounded by water from late afternoon until early morning shutting it off completely from the rest of England. The island does have shops that focus on the island’s Celtic background and even a small church founded by a missionary saint to the island long ago. But by far the shoreline is the most satisfying part of the island and will cost you nothing to enjoy.

Walking down to the shore is not hard, but if you get disoriented don’t be afraid to ask someone for directions. The island is small and natives of Lindisfarne are used to tourists, in fact the island’s population nearly doubles everyday from the number of visitors who come to see the sites and sounds of the sea. The walkable coastline is fairly long and there are many access points from different parts on the island. If you prefer strolling barefoot with sand and surf between your toes, the occasional sea crab scuttling by, and rocky cliffs then the southeastern part of the shoreline is where you will find your serenity. If you prefer a more educational, yet poignant outdoor experience, you can try walking the Pilgrim’s Way trails in the sand that follow the causeway road. These are the paths used before roads were constructed that missionaries and townsfolk alike used to get on and off the island.

Walking leisurely next to a vast expanse of water is a great stress reliever and can be enjoyed by people of all ages. For the younger crowd the sand and water is probably enough to get the excitement going, and as well for everyone. There are tiny pieces of smoothed sea glass and broken, painted chinaware to collect while walking. That was my favorite part, collecting a multitude of odd-shaped blue and white chinaware, saving them for a later date in which to decorate with. There are also a couple of benches along the way where you can sit and admire the splendor that is the North Sea and the visible horizon that blends earth and sky.

One thing that you will notice about the sky when you venture out at night on Lindisfarne is how clearly you are able to view the stars. The distance from major cities and lack of streetlights creates a blanket of darkness that envelopes any and all in a silent stillness, punctuated only by the sound of the waves on the shore. The cover of night and the quietness of the island lends a hand to a time of reflection and thought, and the vastness of the stars are no hindrance to your ponderings. This stargazing activity is sure to show you all that the island has to offer at nighttime: a gorgeous, ebony sky, unmarred by human invention, a soundtrack better than any relaxation CD you can buy, and a view of the stars Galelao would envy.

If you venture a little further down the coast you will come across the Lindisfarne Castle that stands on an eastern hill overlooking the sea and the island. It is open to visitors during the day but is locked and gated at night. And if sunrises or sunsets along the beach spark your interest this is definitely a place to visit. Depending on the season the sun rises and sets at different times but is always a blissful start or end to a day outdoors. When I visited, I walked out to the eastern tip of the island, past lush, green fields of grass filled with sleepy sheep towards the castle and positioned myself next to a stone wall and waited for the sky to change colors. First shades of purple, then pink and orange, and finally yellow…

As enjoyable, exciting, and peaceful these outdoor seashore activities might be on Lindisfarne, remember one very important thing when walking along the beach or sitting in the sand watching the sun: the tide. As all tides go, there is high tide at night, which leads to the causeway being emerged, and low tide during the day. Low tide is the best time to walk the beaches because it gives you much more sandy area to walk, even providing a very shallow and easily waded path to a sandbar not far from shore. I almost lost my shoes and bag to the rising tide but rescued them just in time. Watching the tide rise and fall can be a very relaxing activity, from a safe distance. Feeling the sea breezes and hearing the waves against the rocks and sand is a great way to spend an evening outdoors.

If it’s walking on paths admiring the general splendor of things you fancy then there are also non-shoreline jaunts on Lindisfarne too. You still get all the shoreline experience except you are a few meters back and a few meters up from the water. On the island, there are sand and dirt paths from the upper beach up to the top of the rock cliffs and across to ancient ruins of an old Celtic cathedral and past that to a lighthouse. From there you can look down and out to the North Sea or try and spot land in the distance. These paths lead you around the eastern side of the island and eventually back into the town, but not before taking you through a sheep field or two. First you get to walk through turn-style gates and then make your way across an open pasture where sheep openly graze and become curious about their visitors. These paths are public footpaths, and though they cross through private property, must be upkept by the owners of the land. So while walking on the paths is perfectly fine, walking across the fields is not, so mind your feet.

On this trip to the beach, your feet are going to be the most valuable resource you have, they can take you any and everywhere. When in Europe, walking outdoors is the best experience you can have, especially when walking near the shore and overlooking a great stretch of sea and sky. Lindisfarne provides all of these outdoor experiences, the sunrises, sunsets and stars, the sand and surf, the souvenirs from the shoreline, and the sounds and breezes off the waters. If taking long walks along the beach is in your interests, this is a must. The island of Lindisfarne is rich in scenery and sensory engaging outdoor activities sure to lead to countless memories of sand between your toes and the fragrance of open water.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Glendalough, Literary Pub Crawl, and Guinness' 250 Year Anniversary

Today was one of the best days of England Term thus far. Top three for sure. We're in Dublin and we took a day trip to see some sights associated with James Joyce, an Irish writer and poet. First we took a ride to the James Joyce Museum located off the coast of the Irish Sea. The building was this stone circular watch tower of sorts. The guide said that there were 100 built every mile along the coast to watch for French ships led by Napoleon, the Irish were afraid of an invasion. The museum is also near the town or county of Dun Laoghaire, which as you may know, is mentioned in P.S. I Love You. (Pronounced "Dun Leary"). This made me happy when our guide mentioned it.

My favorite part about this stop was that after we took a look in the museum we all headed out to the shore of the Sea and climbed down and across the rocks to the start of the sea and tide pools. It was GORGEOUS and so fun! Barnacles clung to the rocks and there was algae on the rocks making them really slippery. A friend of mine, Nelly, thought her plan out ahead of time and packed an extra change of clothes so she could go for a dip if the moment presented itself. Needless to say she slipped in a few minutes before we left and swam for a few seconds in her clothes. My friend Emily W. took cool pictures of us on the rocks and climbing, I'll have to edit this post when I can get them from her. They are sweet, so come back and look at them!

The second part of the day came when we got back on the coach and drove to Glendalough. (Pronounced Glenda-low, low as in "aLOWed") The coach driver drove very jerkily and made us all sort of sick. He slammed on the breaks twice, which I don't think should be done to a small coach bus carrying 25 people. Glendalough is a monastic ruins site where this St. Kevin guy founded a church and people came to follow him. The site itself was okay, my favorite part about the site was the graveyards in which we found a gravestone for an Edward Cullen. YES, I am that much of a nerd. Pictures of this to come later too. But apart from that occurrence it was only okay. The fabulous part was again, the landscape. It looked similar to the lake district, placed in a valley, trees of various natures and types with moss on their trunks growing on either side surrounded by medium tall grass and a couple walking paths. As soon as we left the monastic city the adventure began.

I traveled with three other friends, Emily C., Joel, and Katie. As we walked along the path towards the two lakes in this area we stopped to recreate scenes from LOTR. These will also be posted at a soon but later date. The path ran next to a wooded hill on the left and various other landscapes on the right. The left is where all our interest lay on this particular walk. We found this huge boulder where Joel crouched on top looking menacing and about to pounce (Smegal) and I stood below looking oh so innocent appearing to gaze at the "ring" in my hands (a hobit). It was great. We also found a spot up in the wooded hill area to our left to sit and read for about 45 mins. It was also great, we could see everyone who passed by us and they could see us, though it was fun to make animal noises in their direction before they noticed us.

After this we continued along the path and came to the second lake. (We had passed the first one because we couldn't really find a good place to sit) This lake was in between giant tree-lined hills and the water lapped at the gravel shore. There were some tame-ish ducks that followed us around when we got there and one of them stole an ice cream cone from this other walked and made a run for it into the lake, only to have the cone soon disintegrate about 15 feet out, but not before we all had a good laugh. Pictures of this to come also.

We finished the day with a quick dinner at Subway and a Literary Pub Crawl. Basically it was this neat, guided tour of four famous pubs that famous Irish Writers drank in. Our guides were really funny and at the end had a trivia time for a T-shirt. Whoever got the most questions right won a T-shirt. Some lady from Canada won. The tour was really neat, and though I had heard most of the information before, it was cool to see the places I'd heard so much about in connection to the writers I'd read. Thirteen of us from the group went on the tour this time and we thoroughly enjoyed it. The pubs were severely crowded more than normal and the guides had to speak louder than normal in order to cover the voices of the drunken Dubliners surrounding us. This bring me to the celebration of Guinness' 250th Year as a beer. (These guys here were our guides. Ironically the left guy has lost weight since the picture was taken and the right guy has gained.)
Earlier in the evening, exactly at 5:59 pm, tons of people crowded into any and all pubs in the city, especially those located in the popular Temple Bar area where food and drink is always over priced, and raised their glasses of Guinness to...well the invention of the thing. From our hotel windows shouts of "Woo!" and "Yeah!" could be heard from the nearby pubs. People came straight from work to help the country celebrate this "momentous" day in history and continue to celebrate as I write this-at 1:36 am.

Walking the streets we saw the "most interesting things" in relation to this celebration. Early in the day there was this guy who was escorted into an ambulance with a bloody forearm, and throughout the night we saw person after person stumble around the sidewalk, singing songs as if trying to imitate alley cats. We heard numerous unintelligible shouts across streets and shouts from the person standing right next to you to the person right next to them. My roommate reported to me that she saw a guy try to stop traffic and wave his friends across, then proceed to dancing with arms straight and extended in front of him towards the next sidewalk. Strange things I tell you!

But this day was definitely a good one. Relaxing at Glendalough and amusing at the pub crawl and afterwards.

Thanks for reading!

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Mount Snowdon, Wales, Flowers, and Variety Shows


Hmmmm, what haven't you heard about my trip since we last talked? Well let's see...I climbed a mountain, stayed in an amazing library, had two variety show parties, went to the Beatles Story in Liverpool, saw amazing flowers and streams in Botnant Garndens in Wales, went to an antique shop in Wales and bought some sweet old keys, went to the Brontë sister's home, and did a whole lot in London...I think I might make London another entry altogether.

Okay so to start out let me tell you about our stay at St. Deiniol's Library. It's actually a study center that is focused around an amazing library that this guy named Gladstone who was this guy who evangelized to prostitutes. Don't worry, nothing happened. His wife actually came along with him when he did this and together they tried to get these women of the night to change their ways. In this study center there are numerous painting and pictures and cartoons of Gladstone hanging EVERYWHERE on the walls, in the library, in every single hall, in the dining room, in the lounge, in the front hallway, in the stairwells...and the best thing is that in every picture of him, he's got those type of eyes that follow you wherever you go so he is always staring at you. It was rather creepy at times.




While at St. Deiniol's our schedule was rather hobit-like:

8-9 am- Breakfast
9:30 am- Class
10:45ish am- Morning Tea/Coffee and Cake
11:15 am- Class
Noon- Lunch
4 pm- Afternoon Tea/Coffee and Cake
6:45 pm- Dinner
7:45 pm- After-dinner refreshments (Tea/Coffee)

So as you can see, our schedule was something to the extent of eat, sleep, eat, class, eat, lunch, eat, dinner, eat, sleep, eat. But that was totally acceptable because we climbed a mountain that week and in that day alone we burned something like 3,107 calories or more. Needless to say whenever we ate a lot we justified it with, "But we climbed a mountain yesterday...two days ago...three days ago...in the last week."

A few things we came to notice about food in the UK was that they put sweet cream on a LOT of stuff, mostly desserts. Sweet cream is like thick cream that you would put in your coffee but a lot sweeter. Something else was that fish and chips is pretty much equivalent to the hamburger in the US...there are fish and chips places everywhere and they always have it on the menu.

And now to the mountain I mentioned. When we were in Wales we took a bus ride to the location of this mountain in Snowdonia. Sweet name, I know. The hike up took about 3 1/2 hours and 2 hours back down. Now, I do have something to confess. I did not make it all the way to the top. I was within about 25 minutes of reaching the summit. But in my defense, I was pretty much climbing alone for the most part, I hadn't had a lot to eat, and I got stuck in a cloud very close to the top. In that cloud the rain was pelting my hood of my jacket almost horizontal to the ground, it was so cold that the rain was really tiny, sharp, shards of ice. There were also ice crystals on my pants and my glasses were useless because of the weather. Due to the very nature of a cloud it was also very foggy and I couldn't see more than about ten feet in front of me with or without my glasses. If I would have been a few minute fast and had more energy I could have avoided the worst of the weather and gotten above the clouds, but alas. I'm still amazed that I made it all the way up that far though.

Climbing up, the scenery was beautiful and it kept increasing. There was a trolly line that took people up to the top so they could just to the climb down. We like to refer to those people as "cheaters". I met some interesting people during the climb. There was a couple that I stopped and had a snack with at the last resting point before the summit and there was an Irishman I met on the way down smoking a cigarette that had encountered the same thing in the cloud that I had and likewise had to turn back.

My knees and ankles were so sore the next two days, it hurt to climb up to my room and go down to tea. It felt like I had started skating again and went straight for the Senior long program-no warm up.

Towards the end of our stay at St. Deiniol's Library we had our first ET party consisting of everyone doing a talent, or reading something they wrote, or dancing. I had previously collected from people "Literary confessions/ET confessions" in which people wrote down things they wanted to anonymously share with the group. For instance, I got submissions like "I haven't started my paper that's due in two days or read the reading yet", "I hate Pride and Prejudice", and "I'm not going to lie, I applied for ET because I think British accents are hot." So I read those off and they were pretty funny. I also read off a couple haikus I had written. One was:

One, two, three, four, five.
One, two, three, four, five, six, sev'.
One, two, three, four, five.

Other students sang Beatles' songs with musical accompaniments by other members of the group including the professor. Two girls lip-synced to Aaron Carter's "Aaron's Party" song from the middle school era. It was great. A couple people played the piano and all the guys on the trip made a band which they named something like the Spectacular Six and played and sang a bunch of Beatles' songs. St. Deiniol's was fabulous and I wish we could go back.

Thanks for reading!
Pictures to come later, due to the fact that my camera is full and I have to load them on my laptop first.