Travel Writing: Seashore Serenity

Imagine yourself walking along the seashore, the water gently lapping at your toes and receding. See the setting sun in the west, the sky changing colors with time, first yellow, then orange and pink, and finally shades of purple. You take a sip of the hot chocolate in your hands and feel it warm your body as you swallow. The wind blows softly, just enough to make you hug your cashmere sweater closer to your shoulders but not enough to make you shiver. The sweet smell of salt water and sand fills your senses and the distant shouts of a man and his dog echo in your ears. Sandy beaches are one of the most relaxing places to visit while abroad, providing a calming atmosphere, gorgeous scenery, and a spot of time to remember long after you’ve left.

The historic Lindisfarne, or “Holy Island” as is the common name, is one of the most beautiful seashores in Europe and is located east of England next to the North Sea. The island is a causeway surrounded by water from late afternoon until early morning shutting it off completely from the rest of England. The island does have shops that focus on the island’s Celtic background and even a small church founded by a missionary saint to the island long ago. But by far the shoreline is the most satisfying part of the island and will cost you nothing to enjoy.

Walking down to the shore is not hard, but if you get disoriented don’t be afraid to ask someone for directions. The island is small and natives of Lindisfarne are used to tourists, in fact the island’s population nearly doubles everyday from the number of visitors who come to see the sites and sounds of the sea. The walkable coastline is fairly long and there are many access points from different parts on the island. If you prefer strolling barefoot with sand and surf between your toes, the occasional sea crab scuttling by, and rocky cliffs then the southeastern part of the shoreline is where you will find your serenity. If you prefer a more educational, yet poignant outdoor experience, you can try walking the Pilgrim’s Way trails in the sand that follow the causeway road. These are the paths used before roads were constructed that missionaries and townsfolk alike used to get on and off the island.

Walking leisurely next to a vast expanse of water is a great stress reliever and can be enjoyed by people of all ages. For the younger crowd the sand and water is probably enough to get the excitement going, and as well for everyone. There are tiny pieces of smoothed sea glass and broken, painted chinaware to collect while walking. That was my favorite part, collecting a multitude of odd-shaped blue and white chinaware, saving them for a later date in which to decorate with. There are also a couple of benches along the way where you can sit and admire the splendor that is the North Sea and the visible horizon that blends earth and sky.

One thing that you will notice about the sky when you venture out at night on Lindisfarne is how clearly you are able to view the stars. The distance from major cities and lack of streetlights creates a blanket of darkness that envelopes any and all in a silent stillness, punctuated only by the sound of the waves on the shore. The cover of night and the quietness of the island lends a hand to a time of reflection and thought, and the vastness of the stars are no hindrance to your ponderings. This stargazing activity is sure to show you all that the island has to offer at nighttime: a gorgeous, ebony sky, unmarred by human invention, a soundtrack better than any relaxation CD you can buy, and a view of the stars Galelao would envy.

If you venture a little further down the coast you will come across the Lindisfarne Castle that stands on an eastern hill overlooking the sea and the island. It is open to visitors during the day but is locked and gated at night. And if sunrises or sunsets along the beach spark your interest this is definitely a place to visit. Depending on the season the sun rises and sets at different times but is always a blissful start or end to a day outdoors. When I visited, I walked out to the eastern tip of the island, past lush, green fields of grass filled with sleepy sheep towards the castle and positioned myself next to a stone wall and waited for the sky to change colors. First shades of purple, then pink and orange, and finally yellow…

As enjoyable, exciting, and peaceful these outdoor seashore activities might be on Lindisfarne, remember one very important thing when walking along the beach or sitting in the sand watching the sun: the tide. As all tides go, there is high tide at night, which leads to the causeway being emerged, and low tide during the day. Low tide is the best time to walk the beaches because it gives you much more sandy area to walk, even providing a very shallow and easily waded path to a sandbar not far from shore. I almost lost my shoes and bag to the rising tide but rescued them just in time. Watching the tide rise and fall can be a very relaxing activity, from a safe distance. Feeling the sea breezes and hearing the waves against the rocks and sand is a great way to spend an evening outdoors.

If it’s walking on paths admiring the general splendor of things you fancy then there are also non-shoreline jaunts on Lindisfarne too. You still get all the shoreline experience except you are a few meters back and a few meters up from the water. On the island, there are sand and dirt paths from the upper beach up to the top of the rock cliffs and across to ancient ruins of an old Celtic cathedral and past that to a lighthouse. From there you can look down and out to the North Sea or try and spot land in the distance. These paths lead you around the eastern side of the island and eventually back into the town, but not before taking you through a sheep field or two. First you get to walk through turn-style gates and then make your way across an open pasture where sheep openly graze and become curious about their visitors. These paths are public footpaths, and though they cross through private property, must be upkept by the owners of the land. So while walking on the paths is perfectly fine, walking across the fields is not, so mind your feet.

On this trip to the beach, your feet are going to be the most valuable resource you have, they can take you any and everywhere. When in Europe, walking outdoors is the best experience you can have, especially when walking near the shore and overlooking a great stretch of sea and sky. Lindisfarne provides all of these outdoor experiences, the sunrises, sunsets and stars, the sand and surf, the souvenirs from the shoreline, and the sounds and breezes off the waters. If taking long walks along the beach is in your interests, this is a must. The island of Lindisfarne is rich in scenery and sensory engaging outdoor activities sure to lead to countless memories of sand between your toes and the fragrance of open water.